Exploring the culinary gems of Charlottesville

By DAVE ZUCHOWSKI
New Castle News

September 28, 2007 09:38 pm

Despite a few unsuccessful battles in Virginia, Thomas “Stonewall” Jackson still sits tall in the saddle in Charlottesville.
My six-day wine and food excursion through central Virginia led me to the Inn at Court Square, a charming federal period house built in 1785. It is the oldest building in the Historic Downtown District and faces the Albemarle County Courthouse with its magnificent park and equestrian statue of Jackson, considered by many to be one of the finest in the world.
Limited to five guest rooms, the luxury inn is furnished with antiques, many of which are available for sale.
Owner Candace DeLoach also offers an honor wine bar with many Virginia selections by the award-winning Veritas Winery as well as wines from around the world. To enjoy a bottle in the evening, simply sign your name and the wine selection on a sheet of paper and be billed at checkout.
In the morning, a lavish continental breakfast includes breads and pastries baked in-house by pastry chef Pat Chiavetta.
The inn is conveniently located two blocks from the revitalized downtown pedestrian mall, full of fine restaurants, arts and entertainment venues and boutiques.

CELEBRATION OF FOOD
Ten Modern Japanese Restaurant, located at 120B E. Main St., opened October 2006 under the experienced hand of executive chef Bryan Emperor. A Culinary Institute-trained graduate who apprenticed in Japan and worked at Nobu in New York, he is regarded as one of the best Japanese restaurants anywhere.
In addition to serving 20 different brands of quality sake as well as wines and cocktails, the restaurant that translates from Japanese as “celebration” offers a “Ten Martini,” a mix of sake, vodka, aloe juice and sweet momkochan plums.
“Someone familiar with Japanese food will find interesting adventurous items on our menu,” Emperor said. “Those modestly familiar with Japanese cuisine will be comfortable with our menu. Sushi items constitute about 20 percent of our offerings so that those interested in non-seafood, even vegetarian items should be equally pleased.”
Another food lover’s mecca in Charlottesville is the Main Street Market, home of Feast!, Gearhart’s handmade chocolates, Milano’s gelato and coffees, The Organic Butcher and the Albemarle Baking Co.

GOURMET DELIGHTS
Feast! is a veritable cornucopia of fascinating edibles — everything from gourmet salts, oils and vinegars to artisanal cheeses, a connoisseur’s collection of cured and deli meats, local and sustainable produce, wines and more. The exceptional trail mix is made in-house from walnuts, cashews, dried cranberries, chocolate toffee pistachios and truffled cherries. It’s the best I’ve ever had.
Feast! also runs an in-house café spotlighting local, regional and international foods as well as a menu of prepared takeout foods.
Open since 2001, Gearhart’s Chocolates produces handmade chocolates in small batches from Venezualan Criollo cacao. Specialties include favorites like Almond Mocha and Mint Julep and the exotic Maya, a bittersweet chocolate ganache laced with cinnamon, orange and Ancho chile.
The Albemarle Baking Co., now in its 12th year, produces mostly French-inspired breads with some Swiss and German influences. Hearth baked, the breads change daily, and the existing list now includes 21 different types. All the bakery’s elaborate specialty cakes are made from scratch in 8-inch sizes that feed eight to 10.
My stop at the Main Street Market also allowed me to taste the product of Vintage Virginia Apples, a grower exploring the varieties of apples suitable for cultivating in the region. In their orchards, the growers have reintroduced Jeffersonian varieties like the Albemarle Pippin, Pomme Gris and Lady as well as recent introductions like Virginia Gold and Gold Rush.

COUNTRY ELEGANCE
Enjoying the bounteous buffet lunch at the Keswick Hall Hotel at Monticello, an Italianate-style villa located on a 600-acre private reserve, gave me an excuse to visit this elegant country house hotel overlooking the 18-hole signature Arnold Palmer golf course.
The west wing of the structure was completed in 1912. Eighty years later, Sir Bernard Ashley, widower of Laura Ashley, bought the property and expanded the original house. Today, the 45-room luxury property with full service spa is managed by Orient Express Hotels and was recently named the “Top Hotel in Virginia” by readers of Conde Nast Traveler.
Fossett’s, the hotel’s fine dining room, takes its name from Edith Fossett, Thomas Jefferson’s cook at Monticello. The buffet lunch at the Keswick’s Villa Crawford features a carefully selected and ever-changing array of Chef Craig Russell's unique creations.

IF YOU’RE GOING ...
Charlottesville, Va.

For more information on Virginia attractions, call (800) 932-5827 or log on to www.virginia.org.
Additional information on Virginia attractions, check out the following:
• Feast! — (434) 244-7800 or www.feastvirginia.com
•Gearhart’s Chocolates — (434) 972-9100 or www.gearhartschocolates.com
•Albemarle Baking Co. — (434) 293-6456 or www.albemarlebakingco.com
•Vintage Virginia Apples — (434) 297-2326
•Keswick’s — (434) 979-3440

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