“I hope you love birds, too. It is economical. It saves going to heaven.” — Emily Dickinson, American poet.

Even those that don’t especially appreciate birding would have little to complain about at the Santa Ana National Wildlife Refuge.

Located 12 miles southeast of McAllen, Texas, the 2,088 acre tract that abuts neighboring Mexico gives visitors a glimpse of the natural world that has vanished from 95 percent of the Lower Rio Grande.

Located near the junction of four distinct climate zones (temperate, desert, coastal and subtropical), the refuge established in 1943 for the protection of migratory birds is both one of the smallest and most diverse in the U.S. It’s also a birding hot spot where 397 avian species have been seen at one time or another.

Located along two major flyways — the Central and Mississippi – the refuge has seen visitation grow from 11,000 visitors in 1970 to 201,000 in 2000. Of those, park ranger Mike Carlo estimates that 40 percent are avid bird watchers, 40 percent are winter Texans from northern climes and 20 percent are local residents.

To date visitors have come from all 50 states and numerous countries to take advantage of the refuge’s bird and nature walks, tram rides, canoe excursions and 14 miles of hiking trails. The refuge is also a butterfly mecca with as many as 65 documented species recorded on a single October day and 250 species spotted overall, including Zebra longwings, Julias, and Mexican bluewings

“If Santa Ana were a state all by itself, we’d rank fourth in the nation in diversity of butterfly species,” Carlo said.

Hopping on a tram for a drive around the refuge, I managed to see a interesting array of flora and fauna. Volunteer guide Robert Schmall pointed out ubiquitous Spanish moss growing on the branches of trees. We also spotted several pintail and cottontail resacas, (crescent-shaped lakes created by periodic flooding) as well as an armadillo and a rare indigo snake.

One stop took us to a trail that led to the Rio Grande Overlook. (The refuge offers 4 mile canoe trips on the river Wednesdays through Sundays for a fee of $20 per person). A second stop gave us a look at a 150-year-old cemetery. Many of the tombstones were so old the inscriptions had eroded, but others — like the one for Thomas Walter Jones, dated 1853, — sit next to one for the stepson of the area’s original land grant recipient, Christoval Leal.

A 44-passenger, 1-1/2 hour long, interpretive tram ride is offered from the visitor center three times a day from November to April. The cost is $3 for adults, $1 for children.

For those who might want a taste of a Mexican border town, Nuevo Progresso has plenty of atmosphere as well as a string of dentist offices, pedicure and manicure parlors, barber and beautician enterprises, drug stores, gift shops and duty free shopping. Simply pay the 25 cent toll, cross the international bridge into Mexico by foot and take advantage of the low prices. U.S. nationals are allowed to stay for up to 72 hours in the border area without a permit, but proof of citizenship is required for reentry into the U.S.

Garcia’s is a really great place to have dinner in Nuevo Progresso. Located on the second floor with big windows overlooking the bustling town, the restaurant serves a wide range of steak and seafood, Mexican dishes as well as specialties like goat, frog legs and quail. Don’t overlook the flaming desserts like crepes Suzette, bananas Foster and cherries jubilee, prepared at your table.

Back in McAllen, you might want to drop in at the Creative Incubator, a beehive of 12 working artist studios at 1001 S. 16th St. I managed to spend a fun evening there at the opening of a digital art exhibit and installation where the bohemian crowd would have felt quite at home in either Soho or Haight-Asbury.